4/25/2024 0 Comments Diy advance timing light circuit0.34gs on my accelerometer, and the sound was not detonation.Īlso, I ripped apart my spare distributor today, and there is no easy way to change the amount of mechanical advance.The delay timings are adjustable according to the users personal specs. Car started to smell like gas, but I got in it and ran it again just to see if the 'detonation' went away. Thought I was hearing light detonation, so I got out, and cranked it so far retarded that the idle dropped to 850 (from my random high idle). I hopped out and advanced the distributor until it started to stumble at idle and then I backed it off a little bit. I drove it around for a bit, it felt slow. But when you give it gas, timing goes rock solid but increasing.Īnyway. I did notice that at idle the timing jumps around quite a bit (with or without vacuum source hooked up). No scales like on all the other cars that I have owned. No such ball, I was only able to find a line. They claim that with my distributor, at 4000 rpm, a "ball" should appear in the window. I tried to set the timing based on the BMW specs with my light and the flywheel window. It seems to go with the cycles of the moons. First off, my idle is sometimes rock solid at 850, and other times about 1200. I have one at home and one at work bu I doubt the trip to Canada is worth your time.Īlright, so get this. You'll probably need to fiddle with it for a while until you get the feel of it.Īlternatley, find an old codger who has a distributor machine and make friends with him. Use a graph to plot the amount of advance in 50 rpm steps using your engine as a distributor machine along with the timing light and tach. You will probably want everything in by 2000 rpm to make the fattest torque curve you can. Balance the two to make a curve you want. Lighter springs will make the advance come in at lower rpms, Heavier weights will make the curve ramp up quicker. Use the weights and springs to set how fast the advance comes in. Sometimes you can rig something up with a setscrew to make it easier to adjust. There will be a stop in the distributor you can play with which will limit your total advance. Then dial in the rest with your weights, springs and stop plate. You can do this fairly well with the SOTP dyno or a G-tech. Set the idle advance to give you the most power from idle to about 1500rpm. Rev the engine at idle and see how much more advance you have from the idle advance setting and rework the distributor to gain the extra advance you want. It will really only be a benefit for fuel economy.įind out how much mechanical advance you have in the distributor with the timing light. You could use an advance timing light, a tach and the marked pulley to make your engine it's own distributor machine.ģ4 degrees is considered the maximum amount total advance, you can get away with more but generally speaking, power drops off after that.įorget about your vacuum advance if this is a track car. If the car has a knock sensor, it'll catch detonation long before you do. 360 degrees in a circle, right? Just figure out the circumference of the pulley and mark accordingly. If it's all out power you want, advance the distributor until you get detonation under load, then back it off a couple degrees from that.įor the single mark, you just need to do the math. If it's an electronic unit, best to do it with the vacuum gauge. This collapses the field in the coil and makes your spark. You want the points to open exactly when the crank is at the desired degrees of advance. If the rotor turns clockwise, turn the distributor housing counter-clockwise, if the rotor turns counter clockwise, turn the distirbutor housing clockwise. Rotate the distributor until the light -just- goes out. Loosen the distributor and put the probe tip on the terminal on the case of the distributor (the coil negative connection). Hook the clamp to battery positive and take off the distributor cap. Get your test light out (not timing light, test light, you do own one, right?). 5degrees = set the pointer to the 5 degree mark on the pulley with the #1 piston at TDC on compression. With the engine off, set your engine's timing marks to the advance you want.
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